Beaches in and around Agia Pelagia
Four beaches within a quarter of an hour of Maison Meltem, a cove the guidebooks have missed, and two south-coast beaches worth a whole day. With, for each one, the time of day when it is at its best.
The beaches
Four beaches within a quarter of an hour
Agia Pelagia is a small seaside village, and the sea is the first reason to come. From the house, four beaches lie within fifteen minutes by car at most, from our favourite to a beach bar tucked among the rocks. The drive times below are counted from Maison Meltem.
Giannis, one of your two hosts, was born in Heraklion and knows this coast from the inside. These are his beaches, the ones he sends his guests to, each with the piece of advice that changes everything: what time to go. In season the rule holds for nearly all of them — go early.
Psaromoura, the small favourite
Five minutes away by car, Psaromoura is a small beach, and it is our favourite. Its size is both its charm and its limit: in season, take it early in the morning, while it is still yours.
Agia Pelagia beach, at the head of the bay
Ten minutes away, the family beach of Agia Pelagia sits at the head of a charming bay lined with restaurants. This is the village beach: you spend the day, have lunch in one of the restaurants along it, and drive back up to the house as the sun drops.
Ligaria, the next bay along
Fifteen minutes away, Ligaria repeats the pattern: a bay and its beach, a few minutes further from the village. The same ease, a little further out.
Chelidoni beach, the beach-bar one
Fifteen minutes away towards Heraklion, Chelidoni beach changes register: a beach bar tucked among the rocks. Here too, in season, arrive early.
The beaches
And a secret cove
And then there is a cove that appears in no guidebook: a crescent of sand at the foot of the cliffs, water clear enough to see the bottom, and the mountains for a horizon.
We are not naming it here. Giannis and Olivier share the directions only with their guests, and will gladly tell you how to get there: it is the kind of place that only survives as long as it stays quiet.
Further afield
Two south-coast beaches, for a whole day
The south coast is about an hour’s drive away: not an outing but a full day, which pairs with the southern sights described in things to do around Agia Pelagia.
Kommos, near Matala
Matala, the old hippie village, has a beach and restaurants that are often packed in season. Head instead for Kommos beach, five minutes further by car: a huge stretch of pale sand that has stayed wild and quiet, and is naturist in places.
Preveli, the beach and the palm grove
Opposite Rethymno, the beach and palm grove of Preveli lie below the monastery of the same name. Visit the monastery, walk down to the palm grove, finish in the water.
At a glance
Which beach, and when
- Early morning, in season: Psaromoura and Chelidoni, the two small ones, before everyone else.
- A day with restaurants to hand: Agia Pelagia bay, or Ligaria a little further on.
- A whole day, with the car: Kommos or Preveli on the south coast, with a sight on the way.
- The secret cove: ask Giannis or Olivier, they will explain.
Do you need a car for all this? Not for under three days spent in the bay; yes for the south coast. The full answer is in things to do around Agia Pelagia.
Where to stay
Sleeping above the beaches: Maison Meltem
The house overlooks the bay of Órmos Alykis, a few minutes from the village beaches. Between two swims, the infinity pool faces the headland and the Aegean; eight rooms and suites, every one of them turned towards the sea.
A Cretan breakfast is included every morning, and that is where the day’s beach gets decided — Giannis knows which one, and at what time.